%0 Journal Article %1 Arriaga20171 %A Arriaga, J. %A Rutten, J. %A Ribas, F. %A Falqués, A. %A Ruessink, G. %D 2017 %I Elsevier B.V. %J Coastal Engineering %K 2017 AlongshoreTransport HighAngleWaveInstability MegaNourishment MorphodynamicModeling SandEngine ShorelineDiffusivity from:erick007 %P 1-13 %R 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.11.011 %T Modeling the long-term diffusion and feeding capability of a mega-nourishment %U https://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-85007314271&doi=10.1016%2fj.coastaleng.2016.11.011&partnerID=40&md5=0753a7c4bd0c0c19d1ab82bd3ddf1763 %V 121 %X A morphodynamic model based on the wave-driven alongshore sediment transport, including cross-shore transport in a simplified way and neglecting tides, is presented and applied to the Zandmotor mega-nourishment on the Dutch Delfland coast. The model is calibrated with the bathymetric data surveyed from January 2012 to March 2013 using measured offshore wave forcing. The calibrated model reproduces accurately the surveyed evolution of the shoreline and depth contours until March 2015. According to the long-term modeling using different wave climate scenarios based on historical data, for the next 30-yr period, the Zandmotor will display diffusive behavior, asymmetric feeding to the adjacent beaches, and slow migration to the NE. Specifically, the Zandmotor amplitude will have decayed from 960 m to about 350 m with a scatter of only about 40 m associated to climate variability. The modeled coastline diffusivity during the 3-yr period is 0.0021 m2/s, close to the observed value of 0.0022 m2/s. In contrast, the coefficient of the classical one-line diffusion equation is 0.0052 m2/s. Thus, the lifetime prediction, here defined as the time needed to reduce the initial amplitude by a factor 5, would be 90 yr instead of the classical diffusivity prediction of 35 yr. The resulting asymmetric feeding to adjacent beaches produces 100 m seaward shift at the NE section and 80 m seaward shift at the SW section. Looking at the variability associated to the different wave climates, the migration rate and the slight shape asymmetry correlate with the wave power asymmetry (W vs N waves) while the coastline diffusivity correlates with the proportion of high-angle waves, suggesting that the Dutch coast is near the high-angle wave instability threshold. © 2016 Elsevier B.V.

@article{Arriaga20171, abbrev_source_title = {Coast. Eng.}, abstract = {A morphodynamic model based on the wave-driven alongshore sediment transport, including cross-shore transport in a simplified way and neglecting tides, is presented and applied to the Zandmotor mega-nourishment on the Dutch Delfland coast. The model is calibrated with the bathymetric data surveyed from January 2012 to March 2013 using measured offshore wave forcing. The calibrated model reproduces accurately the surveyed evolution of the shoreline and depth contours until March 2015. According to the long-term modeling using different wave climate scenarios based on historical data, for the next 30-yr period, the Zandmotor will display diffusive behavior, asymmetric feeding to the adjacent beaches, and slow migration to the NE. Specifically, the Zandmotor amplitude will have decayed from 960 m to about 350 m with a scatter of only about 40 m associated to climate variability. The modeled coastline diffusivity during the 3-yr period is 0.0021 m2/s, close to the observed value of 0.0022 m2/s. In contrast, the coefficient of the classical one-line diffusion equation is 0.0052 m2/s. Thus, the lifetime prediction, here defined as the time needed to reduce the initial amplitude by a factor 5, would be 90 yr instead of the classical diffusivity prediction of 35 yr. The resulting asymmetric feeding to adjacent beaches produces 100 m seaward shift at the NE section and 80 m seaward shift at the SW section. Looking at the variability associated to the different wave climates, the migration rate and the slight shape asymmetry correlate with the wave power asymmetry (W vs N waves) while the coastline diffusivity correlates with the proportion of high-angle waves, suggesting that the Dutch coast is near the high-angle wave instability threshold. © 2016 Elsevier B.V.}, added-at = {2021-06-01T22:49:24.000+0200}, affiliation = {Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, Department of Physics, Jordi Girona 1-3, Barcelona, 08034, Spain; Utrecht University, Faculty of Geosciences, Department of Physical Geography, Heidelberglaan 2, Utrecht, 3584 CS, Netherlands}, author = {Arriaga, J. and Rutten, J. and Ribas, F. and Falqués, A. and Ruessink, G.}, author_keywords = {Alongshore transport; High-angle wave instability; Mega-nourishment; Morphodynamic modeling; Sand Engine; Shoreline diffusivity}, biburl = {https://www.bibsonomy.org/bibtex/20b5f642124763115c443042f61456202/publ_del_lipc}, coden = {COEND}, correspondence_address1 = {Arriaga, J.; Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, Jordi Girona 1-3, Spain; email: jaime.alonso.arriaga@upc.edu}, document_type = {Article}, doi = {10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.11.011}, funding_details = {Consejo Nacional de Ciencia y TecnologíaConsejo Nacional de Ciencia y Tecnología, CONACYT, 217754}, funding_text 1 = {This research is part of the projects CTM2012-35398 and CTM2015-66225-C2-1 funded by the Spanish Government and cofunded by the E.U. (FEDER). The first author is funded by the Mexican Government (CONACyT, grant number 217754). The authors warmly thank Prof. Dr. M.J.F. Stive for encouraging the fruitful cooperation between the UPC and UU groups that has led to the present research work. Jantien Rutten and Gerben Ruessink were supported by the Dutch Technology Foundation STW that is part of the Dutch Organization for Scientific Research (NWO), and which is partly funded by the Ministry of Economic Affairs, under contract 12686 (Nature Coast: S1 Coastal Safety).}, interhash = {2860fd2ba23d9dd7d58ec45bcb10b97a}, intrahash = {0b5f642124763115c443042f61456202}, issn = {03783839}, journal = {Coastal Engineering}, keywords = {2017 AlongshoreTransport HighAngleWaveInstability MegaNourishment MorphodynamicModeling SandEngine ShorelineDiffusivity from:erick007}, language = {English}, pages = {1-13}, publisher = {Elsevier B.V.}, source = {Scopus}, timestamp = {2021-06-23T06:21:38.000+0200}, title = {Modeling the long-term diffusion and feeding capability of a mega-nourishment}, url = {https://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-85007314271&doi=10.1016%2fj.coastaleng.2016.11.011&partnerID=40&md5=0753a7c4bd0c0c19d1ab82bd3ddf1763}, volume = 121, year = 2017 }