Article,

Morphodynamics along a micro-tidal sea breeze dominated beach in the vicinity of coastal structures

, and .
Marine Geology, (2019)
DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2019.106013

Abstract

The present study investigates the seasonal and interannual morphodynamics on a micro-tidal sea-breeze dominated tropical beach located in the northern Yucatan peninsula (México). The coastal dynamics in the study area are controlled by both local (sea-breeze) and synoptic (Central American Cold Surge; CACS) scale atmospheric events. However, the net (westward) littoral drift is dominated by more persistent sea breeze events. The field study was conducted along a 2-km stretch of sandy beach located in the vicinity of two coastal structures. One hundred beach surveys (2000 beach profiles) were undertaken between May 2015 and June 2019 on a weekly and bi-weekly basis to investigate beach morphodynamics. Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis of the morphological features are used to identify the dominant modes of beach variability. The first and second spatial EOF modes explain the beach long-term trend and rotation, respectively. The first spatial mode is highly influenced by the presence of the structures for all morphological features. The second spatial mode associated to beach rotation shows accretion (erosion) eastward (westward) of the structures during spring-summer (fall-winter) months. Field observations were employed to correlate the beach response with physical parameters (i.e., water level and wave parameters). The long-term trend of the shoreline and subaerial volume show no significant correlations with the physical parameters, whereas the temporal mode of the high-water contour presents a step-like behavior which is correlated to the still water level. On the other hand, beach rotation is highly correlated to the seasonal variability of wave parameters. Field observations suggest that increase of CACS events activity and water level during El Niño 2015–2016 winter season enhanced (decreased) the beach rotation (translation), implying a high beach sensitivity to climate variability in this region. © 2019 Elsevier B.V.

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